To finish off my time here I opted to go on one more ger to ger trip, this time to Terelj
National Park on a Nomadic Lifestyles 6 day journey. My trip started with a two and a
half hour bus ride out of UB to the north. Once I arrived, with two other ladies from
London, we were picked up by ox cart, crossed the Terelj river, then headed to my first
host family. I transferred to a second ox-cart half way, and finally arrived at my families
ger near a lazy bend in the river. Lunch followed soon after, accompanied by other
guests, vodka, and singing. It is tradition here to sing a song when you accept the
vodka, and guests are not exempt. I sang, nervously at first, then with more conviction
as my hosts and the other guest tried to sing along. After everyone had departed I
helped with the dished, hauled water from the river, helped with the cow milking by
holding the calfs and spoke with one of the daughters who had picked up an incredible
amount of english just from speaking with other travelers. As she nursed her 8 month
old daughter we talked about traditions and her life studying traditional medicine in UB
during the year and spending her summers with her family at the gers. I finally curled
up in the guest ger to sleep.
In the morning I helped once again with dishes after breakfast, then went on a ride with
an 18 year old guide. He would sing quietly as we rode and after a while, and me
singing as well, he became comfortable enough to sing in ernest. It started to rain so
we cantered across a field to some cattle shelters and waited out the rain by sharing
names of tack and exchanging braiding and ceremonial preparations for the horses.
Finally the rain lessened and we headed back the way we had come, opting to cross the
river, feet tucked up high on the saddle, rather than negotiate the narrow rocky path
above the water once more. When we returned to my host family I was told to canter
around the field as much as I wanted and was able to observe the preparations of a
Shamanic ceremony. The family brought long branched and set them up in a teepee
like pattern to light as a bonfire. After I had settled my mare I watched and listened as
the drumming began the the ceremony proceeded slowly up a nearby hill. Two other
girls arrived for the beginning of their 8 days of horses and exploring and I spoke with
them then we all helped clean up after lunch, me washing the dishes, them hauling
more water from the river. We helped with the cows once more, trying to befriend the
very independent toddler, then finally headed to bed after a light dinner. Not long after
going to bed I began to feel very sick and so began my 36hour fun with food poisoning.
I spent much of the night outside in the rain letting my body rid itself of everything. The
girls gave me TLC, and in the morning I was finally able to keep down some gatorade
that one of the girls had in powder form. The family, once alerted to my situation took
amazing care of me, sending my guide from the day before into town to get me some
sparkling water, preparing sushi with carrot and rice for me to nibble on at lunch,
providing me with some traditional remedies for fever and stomach unease, then giving
me a shot glass of warm vodka with salt, something they assured me was good for
upset stomaches. That night one of the girls began the same cycle as I had just gone
through and the next day decided to stay an extra night as I had rather than go on to the
next ger.
In the morning I was feeling better so after helping with the laundry and exchanging
music with my host sister, I headed to my next family, my pack on the ox cart and me on
horse back. The ride took two and a half hours, and was beautiful, first winding through
forest beside a creek then across open step covered in a blanket of yellow, white and
purple flowers. When I arrived at my next family I was taken to my ger and encouraged
to rest. My fist host mother arrived shortly there after with some others, we all went into
the main ger for tea and a snack, then she departed and I got to learn how to milk a
cow, dress up in some traditional garb, and experiment with Mongolian archery. The
bow is drawn in a pinch grip here, between a curled index finger and the thumb. After
many tries I managed to hit my target (I had left my glasses inside so seeing it was a bit
challenging). My hostesses niece helped me and we celebrated my success together.
Finally it was time for a trip to the latrine and bed.
In the morning we hitched up the ox cart and headed to my final family back the way I
had come the day before. We helped a few locals cross the Terelj then began the last
leg of our journey passing some mother and baby yaks on the way. My final hostess
greeted me warmly when I arrived, gave me some milk tea and food, and we spoke
briefly about shamanism as she was a shaman. I spent my afternoon in my ger reading
The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down, one of my touchstone readings, then joined
my hostess for some dinner. With the last light of the day I played with my macro lens
and some flowers then headed to bed.
In the morning I woke early, packed, and then hopped on a motorbike behind my host
who took me to another family nearby that were preparing their ox-cart to go into town.
Once again my first host mother was present and joined us on our way. At the bus stop
I found the second girl from my first family. Turns out she had gotten sicker than either
myself or the other traveller, and had decided to head back to UB. We hopped on the
bus when it arrived, and I savored the views of the two hour ride back. With only one
more day to do my last minute shopping and sightseeing, I knew that I wanted every
moment to count.
Mongolia was an amazing experience, not what I had expected, and wonderful because
of it. I canʼt wait to return someday!